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While the seemingly endless number of grape varieties,
weights and styles of wine in combination
with the availability of food from nearly every country in
the world makes for a mathematically daunting number of
options, you don’t have to be Gene Rayburn to master the
match game.
There is no question that wine and food have a profound effect on one another. The first time you experience a perfectly compatible, complementary food and wine pairing, a match so exquisite you can only communicate through gestures, eye contact, facial expressions, and sighs of immense gratification and contentment, you understand the old adage of the total being greater than the sum of its parts.
The specific combination is unimportant and is different for everyone: a bowl of mussels steamed in white wine served with an edgy, minerally Muscadet; garlicky grilled lamb with Provencal herbs next to a gamey, smokey, black-fruited Chateauneuf-du Pape; steely Chablis and cold, fresh oysters; or a wild mushroom lasagna with a juicy, vibrant Barbera. Whatever the match, the result can be magical.
We will try to make some sense, and bring some order, to a totally unruly subject. The most valuable advice is to realize there are no hard and fast rules to understanding the complexities of food and wine, anymore than there are for understanding people or life. But there are endless possibilities for experimentation and the development of familiarity and knowledge. You can and should spend a lifetime in the open-minded, adventurous enjoyment of that process. Here are some suggestions:
Matching traditional regional foods to wines from the same region is one of the safest bets possible. Generations of people, food, and wine have evolved together to create the current culture. In addition to the obvious cultural compatibility, there is quite often a synergy of the environment, microclimate, vegetation, and geology. One example is the fresh white goat cheese with a lively, lemony tang that is produced in and around the village of Sancerre, home also to a fabulously fresh and lively white wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. Both are products of the same land, so their deep compatibility is completely understandable. Tasting the two together in the village of Sancerre is one of those magically transporting experiences.
There are two general approaches to matching food with wine: contrasting or complimenting. Examples of contrasting matches would be rich fatty foods like long-cooked ribs with lean, aggressively tannin young reds like Bordeaux, Barolo, or Barbaresco; or lobster in drawn butter with a sleek Sauvignon Blanc with the high acid “cut” to penetrate the opulence of the dish. Rich foods of lower acidity with juicy reds and whites like Australian Shiraz or a medium sweet Vouvray would be examples of more complimentary matches with those same dishes.
Of course, things aren’t always so clear cut. A German Riesling with the richness of homemade applesauce, the mineral/slate of a stone masons worksite and a nearly cartoon-ish eye-popping acidity can crossover to any category. There may be no better wine and food match than one of these wines, especially from the Mosel, with roast pork.
Acidity in the wine is one of the most important components in a successful match with food. Acidity cleans and energizes the palate making the next bite of food or sip of wine taste fresh and vibrant. Acids prepare and focus the palate. They also serve as an ingredient in the dish much like a squeeze of lemon adds life and brings out the flavors of many foods. Chablis, some Loire Valley whites, and German Riesling all are noted for their brisk acidity. Italian Barbera and Dolcetto are a couple of examples of medium-weight red wines that have a delightful balance of ripe, grapey fruit and the necessary acids to support a meal. While there certainly are exceptions, in general European wines are more often made in a style that takes into consideration the role wine plays in combination with food. In fact, the European perspective is that wine IS food.
The tried and true precept that you combine red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat is still good advice. But don’t be intimidated or unwilling to experiment. A light to medium weight Pinot Noir is very sympathetic with roasted salmon. But don’t get carried away! Overly lean or excessively tannic reds will taste dreadfully metallic with many white fish dishes.
Spicy, salty or smoky dishes will have your palate searching for the soothing relief of something sweet. A peachy, lush German Riesling in the Spatlese category will serve as a protective cushion against the heat of everything from buffalo wings to those 3 chili Thai dishes. Gewurztraminer from Alsace with exotic aromas and flavors of lychee, tangerine and rose petals are also considered a soothing match.
When matching dessert with sweet wines remember that you can have too much of a good thing. Sometimes it’s better to have just dessert or just dessert wine. If you do serve them together make sure the wine is sweeter than the dessert. Something as simple as fresh fruit, particularly berries, with a German sweetie, Sauternes, or Italian Vin Santo can be ethereal. Banyuls, a southwestern French fortified wine made from the Grenache grape, is widely considered the classic match with chocolate but a mildly sparkling Moscato D’Asti is best.
There are many wines with long traditions as great food matches that have become neglected or forgotten. Champagne and all manner of sparkling wines, Sherry and Roses all have long histories as food friendly wines.
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